Saturday, 10 May 2014

Some nights are to remember (Budapest part 3)

The Groove hostel was once again home to me, and as I said before, it's not a party hostel. How ever you make friends, and these friends, might have another friend who is staying at a hostel call the Retox, no points for guessing that this one is a party house. Not being the biggest fan of organised pub crawls because 15 euro is a lot to pay for some watered down shots, I usually take the chance to explore myself, but being free this time I thought why not? We stood by the door outside or the hostel listening into the MC try to organise everyone over the microphone. It sounded as much of a challenge as a room full of twelve year old kids. "There's a noise curfew here, so I need everyone to shut the fuck up!" Worked eventually.


A name like Retox, it was always promising mess, and it delivered, but I'm getting a head of myself. At the bar was an open open mic and the worst joke telling MC down the front of a long room, but I'll give him this he had good taste with the first girl he called to the stage. She was pretty and strummed guitar, and when she sang, she blow my mind. The air was full and cause with Australian accents, until that first sung line pierced the room and turned it to silence. I regret that I never wrote down her name, because she took the whole room not just me with her voice.


The proceeding sets was of a less than amazing quality, or of an amazingly untalented quality. Bad jokes, off tone voices, lyrics dropped by the handful, but it wasn’t to last forever. One of the hostel staff along for the crawl was a professional rapper (Cyclops), and owned that stage with a freestyle that lasted a good 7 or 8 minutes. "Owed to Tittie". Now there was a lot to say about titties, everyone loves titties. But this owed was not for the love of fun sacks, but the love of another hostel worker that went by the name, that had left for Australia the day before. I never him, from being in another hostel, but I do knew he will be missed.


Later on in the night something else happened. Some people were up on stage, and thanks to the wonders of smart phones, had the lyrics there to guide them. The song was 'The scientest' by Coldplay. From the moment I heard the instrumental, a freestyle started writing it's self in my head. Walking out of the crowd at the second chorus, I asked for the mic and dropped the sixteen bars of speaking my mind.




Coldplay


Come up to meet you, tell you I'm sorry
You don't know how lovely you are
I had to find you, tell you I need you
Tell you I'll set you apart
Tell me your secrets and ask me your questions
Oh let's go back to the start
Running in circles, coming in tails
Heads on a science apart


I was just guessing at numbers and figures
Pulling your puzzles apart
Questions of science, science and progress
Do not speak as loud as my heart
Tell me you love me, come back and haunt me
Oh and I rush to the start
Running in circles, chasing our tails
Coming back as we are


Nobody said it was easy
Oh it's such a shame for us to part
Nobody said it was easy
No one ever said it would be so hard
I'm going back to the start




My Verse (Love you, or leave you alone PT1)


We met a month ago. Thank you
for a few moments of you time to hear out my mind.
We started as friends, and damn she looked fine
Then after a few days, for a night she was mine.
A couple of days later I wrote, that song confessions of a player
How my thoughts changed weeks later.
We kept in contact talking on the face space
Came to visit a few days at her place
After a week, what can I say things changed
Emotions got involved, as they do in there strange way
Every day, we talked even just to say hello
I'm missing you, and where'd the time go
Am I wrong to be getting into this? I don't know?
Home is where the heart is and a and I left a part with her
So I'm picking up the phone
I've got to love you, or leave you alone.




I remember I had some long conversations later that night, though I cant remember what about. I do remember too much Polinka, free drinks, and more drinks after that, and free again. Then the 'oh shit' moment, where my legs stopped obeying what my head was telling them and just doing there own thing instead, the moment I realised I should have stopped five drinks ago. I knew I was going to black out, very, very shortly. I said some quick good byes, and stumbled my way out to the street.


I woke up the next day in my bed with a hangover that could kill a small bear, and know idea of what happened yesterday after about after midnight. I looked down beside me to see my boots still laced up beside my bed. My boots lace up around my ankles, they can't actually take them off laced up, but I managed it some how like a shit Houdini trick that I can only do when I'm slaughtered.


I made a coffee and took it outside for a cigarette. A moment later I was joined by a friend, she gave me red bull, she was a nice girl.
"Morning" I defrosted.
"Afternoon" came returned with a smile.

About two hours later I remembered I got a taxi, that was a good move especially in the part of town I was in. Somehow didn't wake anyone, or make a fool of myself coming in. Some nights are to remember, some things are not to repeat.
A different night, but a good night. Lovely people.

Saturday, 29 March 2014

A fan of Micheal Jackson (Vienna)

At the end of the main street was the Renascence Hotel, beautiful building by night, but astonishingly boring by day. I went inside to enquire as to the price, feeling in the mood for a hotel. My thoughts had been something of get some work done, have a good nights sleep, be up at some reasonably respectable time the next day. I was by no means set on it.
“How much!?”
'150 euro for a room and breakfast'

I suspected the cost was going to be well out of my range, but I inquired into a room without breakfast for the sake of seeing what they ask.
'99 euros sir'.
I felt like John Travolta asking if there's bourbon in the $5 shake. All I can say for 51 euro, I hope it is delivered to you by a skimpy dressed maid, baring a silver platter, or at least campaign. So I went to see what the fuss was about and had a look at the dinner menu. I would say well priced for what it was, but boring, almost all the dishes on the regular menu failed to inspire me, but the featured one I must say did. A showcase of goose, with a nominal amount of courses, I was really exited when the entree was only 10 euro. Unfortunately the restaurant had been booked out that night so I never got to try it.


I found a pub with wifi to get my bearings, the bar tender was incredibly helpful, and seemed incredibly 'friendly'. So I met the locals and compared beers and played darts, long time since I've played but I could get into it as an alternative to pool. And talked the night away while some cool old grooves played in the background (yeah, I did just say that). People came and went, originally there was four of us, the regulars came in for there rounds, taxi drivers (for coffee), and a policeman. Until the end where, the bar was closing and it was just the two of us. With the bar packed up and ready to leave, we through on some music to dance to. Dance we did and wow she was really, very good.


She beat my to ask if I could walk the other to the train station, at the station. Despite, being in a new city the want to explore, and a beautiful girl standing in front of me, it was the second place I wanted to be. For all long time that evening I was wondering should I kiss her, there was something good going there. Every part of myself, or at least the three usual suspects in a power struggle were sending me messages, and not agreeing between themselves. Heart with Szilvi, head knowing that would end, and well... No points for guessing he last one. I said, that “I'd let her know next time I'm coming through.”


I at least saw a little of the city, but hardly enough to say I've truly experienced it, more than a tease. Vienna seemed to have a mix of many things, and it's a curious mix when it comes to town planning, never before and I doubt ever again will I see a religious building next to a strip club. (funny enough, this would be proved wrong a few weeks later). But there it was a impressive cathedral, with a very low budget looking strip club right beside.

I was taking the tram back to the train station when I saw it. An opportunity to ring out my shoes and another pair of socks. Looking like something out to the X-games was the skate park. When Jack and I were young, we'ld be wanting to stop into any park we past, now older with my own time management, haven't changed much. I spent the rest of the afternoon there with my rolling vice, until it was time to get my train back to Budapest.

For Saturday nights and Sunday Mornings.

Saturday, 15 March 2014

Cold Feet (Sopron)

It was a misty night setting in as I arrived in Sopron, cool without breeze. A relief after the bustling streets of the capital, and major cities. As I looked for my hotel I could see ruins by the sides of the cobbled streets of the architecture of the once expansive Roman empire. After a routine check in and bag drop at the best Western, the sudden realisation came in that I was famished. Extending to my perception of a sleepy town, the small restaurant that would satisfy my hunger that night was to be occupied by only one other group than myself, though it was early in the week and getting later in the night. However the occupants were jovial, and between them trying to create the ambiance and volume of every other table left vacant. Going from there mood, I'm sure they would of been quite happy to have me join in there singing, but my lack comprehension of Hungarian settled me as audience rather than participant. When the time came for me to wonder, the mist had set in so far as not to be able to see the end of the street. Not far away a pale blue glow shimmered as a beacon in the sky thus becoming the target of exploration, that loomed as the fire tower as I approached; underneath, the entrance to the town square.


Hardly passing anyone as I walked through the streets, I was becoming reflective of the last few weeks, mainly of when I left Poland. I had talked much of my mind with a few people, but I was alone with my thoughts properly for the first time in a while. And of course with the love of irony, on the mistiest night I would see on the trip, my head started to clear. Some nights in Budapest, Szilvi and I would talk to the early hours of the morning, four or five hours at a time, with the practicality of some sleep bringing the close to most conversations. I was wandering around the misty streets, but I had now come to terms with something I knew, with a bit more clarity, and my heart and mind come to rest on a common ground.


One thing every low budget traveller will comment on, though usually dropped in recount, is walking, a lot of walking. My whole point for mentioning this, being no different, my choice in footwear is around my sport: skateboarding, thus the rapid destruction of shoes. I had woken the the sound of rain, and the rest of the day it would keep me company with a thoroughly inadequate umbrella turning inside out with any moderate speed gust of wind. And the shoes worn through at the heels at this piont. The sights of the town, last night covered in the mystique of the mist was now under a heavy wet gloom of grey. By the time I had made the five minute walk into town, my socks were water logged through the split in my heals. And for the first time in my life I would find sanctuary under the roof of the church.



A moral boost was in order, so at the first bakery I turned in for a treat. I have always had a strong love for bakery goods, but in Hungary I think I had started to gain wait for the love of them. Rolled and fired doughnuts, scrolls of chocolate and pastry or orange and poppy seed. Greeted at the counter the lady to served me said to me "guten Tag" To which I started responding "Nem Ertem Mag..."? (I don't understand Hung..) "Sorry I can't speak German". I gave this some thought as I ate. Sopron is as far west as you can be in Hungery without leaving the country. Twenty minutes later, I found that a train to Vienna takes four hours and leaves in two. I took that time to once more see the town, before taking the train and changing to fresh foot insulation of two pairs of socks.


Sopron Fire Tower

Sleepy town

Thursday, 30 January 2014

Punching claustrophobia in the balls (Budapest part 2)

The day was still grey and drizzly, but I head to Margaret island, just near to my hostel, strolled through the park decorated with different art insulations, and saturated violets. I was out looking for a light show fountain that Sziliv had recently told me about, but unfortunately it was not in operation. The island was a pretty place but, somewhat looses its charm when I comes with brushing my wet fringe from my eyes every thirty seconds. Setting out my plans I went to find the Lucas baths. I stopped in to a pub for a coffee and directions, and in that inevitable way what was going to be five minutes turned into a half our conversation about Budapest. By the time I had left, may map was full with new scaled additions of 'Go here →' and 'avoid here at night → Brooklyn'.
I found the baths shorty and let the warm water relax me, the themes thermal bath in coloured light, and bubbling with jets on different patters and swirling with the artificial whirl pool. Then in the sauna to sweet, then bathing in the cold water and back to the bath until all tension had been left from my body. Three hour later I left severely pruned and satisfied.


I when back into the bar for a drink and continue the conversation at the bar and with a local. Though I struggling to keep up; the pleasures of the baths only left me with one downside, my left ear had become jammed with water that refused to clear its self for a couple of hours. I was given a good tip when I was there to head down to find the event Random Trip, a improve music event at the A38 club on the Danube (On a boat). I also learned a dangerous word that night before I left 'Szeretlek' (I love you in Magyar) Two weeks and the first thing I think of each morning is Szilvi, I am starting to believe it is true.


The A38 was unreal I only had a few drinks as there were pretty expensive, but the band was excellent two of the best freestyles I've ever heard (sincerely) a singer and four peace band, just killing it. One song in particular stuck to me 'I got to love you, or eave you alone' perhaps it was what was on my mind. Thought they killed every other moment of the show too. I got back to my hostel, a little drunk but not to bad.


The headed down the road for caving. Then, when I arrived at the meeting point I bumped into someone completely unexpected, Kevin Blaine that I met at Alex's in Milan. It was great to catch up with a familiar face, swap a few stories of where we had been since then and, and share another activity. It was a large gathering, and when we arrived at the caves we split into two groups. The one Kevin and I were in was, nearly all Australians, with the only one American girl separating it from being total. Behind an ominous iron door was a tunnel, I had to stay crotched in to avoid hitting my head on the iron supports that held up the roof.


At the end of the passageway we started to make a steady decent into the caves below. Crawling on our bellies we clambered under tight passes, descending further and further by ladders until we came to an open chamber. Every one was young and fit, feeling we were moving fairly quickly, until the instructor came flying through a gap little wider than a man chess to join us as soon as if he had used a door. “that was the easy bit, we can choice the easy or hard way from here”. Being Australian and manly which did we choose? The going got progressively harder as we went on, we had descended to a depth of about 100 meters at this point when the path opened out to another chamber, the roof was lined with fossils of shells and marine animals. Instructed to turn our head lamps of the guide shone a torch at an unambiguous piece of rock, but on the wall behind stood out the profiled silhouette of a face. The same chamber also brought out an elephant in the room, a great big stone elephant coming out of the wall. As we started to rise back up through the honeycombs, we were given the option to take the easy way or the really hard way buck to the surface. The Australians had lost there gusto at this point for difficult options, I was secretly hoping for the that someone would speak up for the hard option, and it came to the shame of the Aussies form the American girl. The hard option was aptly named the sandwich, a fifteen meter long sideways shuffle along the tightest gap you could possibly fit a human through that tips you out on your head afterwards. We made it out alive bruised and in need of a well earned beer, and as Kevin so brilliantly put it with the feeling that we just punched claustrophobia in the balls.


When I got back to the hostel Szilvi and I started talking on facebook, so time went on and we flirted, and talked about our days. It was about 10 when we started talking and didn't stop until about 3 am. I was starting to really miss her at this Point...
What fun that day was.


Kevin


Tuesday, 28 January 2014

I cant believe I'm actually here! (Budapest Part 1)

I woke at six in the morning to see the bear black trees of Hungary, the ground still wet from the night before and the fog starting to rise. I sat and just watched the world go by, as we pasted through small towns and villages, steeped roofed houses often pasting by, and few in the streets walking their dogs in the still sleepy hours of the morning. Low hills and forests lining the background that, slowly disappeared as the got in closer to the capital. After departing from the train, at eight o'clock I headed for the main street to find my hostel. A man standing on the corner of two roads, approached me, with typical drug dealer type body language, "hey, do you want to buy some cigarettes?" 'No thanks' I replied and had a little chuckle to myself. Looks like tobacconists don't open on Sunday morning here? I did not recognise the street names, the direction I had written down were quite clear. So I stopped into a bar to have my morning coffee, and hopefully push my remaining 8% battery life on my computer to find directions. Alas it did not make it. Not to worry around the corner I found an internet cafe, and for the extreme price of 50 Forint (15c Euro) I was able to get new directions. Feeing lazy and frustrated, I caught a taxi that immediately started taking me in the wrong direction, after a moment when I realised that the driver didn't have a clue where he was going, I got him to pause the meter, look up the address once more and go in the right direction this time. My hostel, the groove, was reviewed very well on hostel world and in it's description there was a statement it was not a party hostel as I was in the same apartment building as permanent residents. This suited me fine, after Prague a decent detox was in order. I did my usual routine, of a few nights, extend, extend.


The first night I met two young ladies, true romantics, which made the three of us in this conversation. All of us missing the people we wished we were with so we talked of why we weren’t. All of us happened to be reading smut novels at the time too, by the end of the night I had another blog project to add to my list and pseudonym name. I downloaded an audio book of Fifty shades of Grey as we were chatting away, and upon playing it we couldn't stop laughing. The voice actor managed to take some perfectly good filth and turn it to a story as wooden as a cupboard, I couldn't see anyone bearing listening though the whole thing, let alone be turned on, it would be like trying to let your imagination run wild while listing to the sound of nails on a chalk board. Szilvi and I talked that night after the girls went to bed, teasing each other, and missing her as she does me. After an hour of so my computer decided, this a is a suitably frustrating and inappropriate time to update. Bringing the end of the night for me to a close as abruptly as this paragraph.


I took my skateboard as the early evening set in the next day, the dreary drizzle of the morning had passed, and the streets were dry enough to skate on. The light was becoming notable shorter now and by four o'clock the light was beginning to fade. Following the Danube I rolled on. Sitting on the bridge next to a crown with a crooked cross I had one of those brilliant moments, where you say, 'fuck me, I cant believe I'm actually here! This is the Danube, I'm in Budapest, and I can't believe I am actually here!' The type of moment you feel so alive that you can remember the breeze on you face, and the rush of adrenalin. Across the water from the bridge, on either side stands the parliament building and to the castle, dead in front it the distance, stood the Liberty statue, awe-inspiring light up in the night. I followed the hill up to the castle and walked around the outside of this astonishing glorious building. Statues and interesting architecture are all around with the detail and endemicity that lets you know your in a capital of Europe, so much so I even took photos of the parking lot (Best parking lot I've ever seen though). A different bridge brought me back to the Pest side, I pasted but the Parliament, thought at this time the size and grandeur were appreciated best from afar; as the ground level was almost completely surrounded by construction work, that did mare the effect a little up close. I bought some supplies, and skated in the general direction of my hostel. Forty five-ish, maybe more minutes later I found my hostel once more. So I can tick Budapest of my (genuine) goal list of getting lost in every city I visit.




Pinching myself on this one.

Hungarian Parliament, look familiar?
Not bad for a car park

Wednesday, 22 January 2014

Getting about the bones (Kutna Hora)

Another day trip on the cards. A few of us from the hostel took to the train to, check out (or Czech out) the Sedlec Ossowary at Kutna Hora. Despite what you might think of the idea of the contents, it is straight up far from a creepy place. OK the elaborate assortment of the decorations are made up of the remains of somewhere between 40,000 to 70,000 persons, but hey in the imagination of the human race this is but, strange; and about a creepy as a skull tattoo. You can find yourself transfixed by the assemblies, and from the elaborate chandeliers that hang in every other castle and manor; none have got such a notable kick-ass appearance as here. At least one of each bone in the body, from the philangie (fingers) to the calcaneus (heel) are sewn together to form the chandelier, that hangs above four posts of layered skull and cross bones. Then of coarse you have the Schwarzenberg family coat of arms, that looks like it something you might find on the walls of a 'Gears of War' game. A brief walk through the history will explain how this came about.


This all started to come about in the seventeenth century, but the reason why become so over abundant in bones started over 600 years before, with Otakar II Reigning King of Bohemia. Sending the abbot of the Sedlec monastery to the Holy lands. When the Abbot returned he had bore with him a small amount of earth which he sprinkled across the cemetery. The earth the abbot brought back was from Golgotha, according to the gospel, the sight of Jesus' crucifixion. The Sedlec cemetery soon became on the most desirable paces in all of central Europe to be berried. In the 14th century, the cemetery was expanded. This expansion was due was from the sweeping black death; and again expand in the 15th century after war. In 1511 skeletons were exhumed, stacking bones in the chapel by a half-blind monk. This of cause was a bit untidy, so now we come to the interesting part; 1870, František Rint was employed by the Schwarzenberg family, to make sense of the mass of bones, the results of coarse outstanding.


It is no surprise that the Ossowary has been used in the Dungeon and Dragons movie, it is a space that lends its self to the fantasies of movies and novels. It is so far out of the ordinary that it is one of the places I have wanted to see for a Long time; that is, about as long as the time since I first saw it on the TV series the Long way Round. We all had a good look round, through our copper to the wishing stand and took our photos, we would of stayed longer, but it came to closing time of the day. As you walk out, bone lines the doorway, bone chalices flank your sides, F. Rint's signature is the last thing you notice on the wall, and of coarse, written in bone. Glad to be ticking it off my bucket list, we headed off to find somewhere warm.


It was a sleepy grey afternoon, with no more than a handful of people walking the Sedlec streets excluding us. When we stopped at a cafe for afternoon coffee, there was only one other person with a cigarette at the bar; possibly a sign that the tourist season was coming to a close. Felling warmed up once more we retuned to the train station. James my room mate, who had introduced me to the group (and also looked as if he had been recently mauled by a nymphomaniac) split of the head down to Brno. James, James, Hanna and myself had walked round the castle in Prague on a previous evening; though I haven't made the inclusion in my blog, if I stay to my plan of editing this once more into a book, I shall make this addition and many more that were cut to the volume of content I gave for each stop.


Breakfast the next morning had it's acquaintance as usual, bumping into a couple of people up for more exploration of Prague. When we got to the clock the crowd was thick in the square, we supposed and the affirmed by checking the time that It was close to the hour. Waiting around till the hour struck and windows opening and the figures paraded around. I was trying to film it, though I don't know why I hardly had filmed anything up to this point. Doing my best to avoid experiencing wholly through the camera screen, the result was an unfortunate tipsy swinging shot, that filmed parts of the wall, and parts of of what I was actually tying to point it at. There's got to be a few morals in there, but I'll leave you to choose your own. When my friend and I said our goodbyes, I went to see what time at night the train left for Budapest. I was exited to find it would be midnight, there is something about travelling on train that greatly appeals to me, and I was chuffed the next leg would be on a sleeper.



The Chandelier

Schwarzenberg family coat of arms

František Rint 1870
The sign from the butcher we past on the way to the station,
not sus at all?



Thursday, 9 January 2014

Looking out from our pale blue dot. (Prague part 2)

“Space is big. You just won't believe how vastly, hugely, mind-bogglingly big it is. I mean, you may think it's a long way down the road to the drug store, but that's just peanuts to space.”
-Douglas Adams


Where do we come from? We get a certain feeling when we look up at the night sky, what are we doing on this rock in space? And though the older we get, we trend to ask these questions less frequently. Hopefully it is because we found some answers, and hopefully the instinct of curiosity has survived too; to question is the seed of inspiration. Of cause a lot of people can tell you there opinion of the answer. Research and resources to draw on are expansive; comparison and scepticism are our best guides here. I have seen a lot of marvellous buildings built in the name of something divine. One place that made me return to this thought and further develop my opinions was the Prague observatory, and is probably the closest I come to the feeling of when a religious person goes to church. This however is not about my opinions, I may gladly ramble on those another time. This is a ramble about the excitement of the scientific answers we know so far, and the crazy tangent thoughts that come from it. Ari, Barney and myself met again, in a place where three telescopes look out into the magic of space. What focused on the lens was beautiful, unforgeable, bending the mind on a scale of such enormity.


As the telescopes were refocused thought the night, they pointed toward the trillion star Andromeda (M31) galaxy, our closest neighbouring spiral galaxy. Approximately 2.5 million light years away and also incidentally going to collide with the milky way in 3.75 billion years years time. Part of my love for the cosmos is this bewilderment of gargantuan scale in the universe, it is an astonishing 10,00 light years just to the other side of our (400 billion stared) galaxy, and that's peanuts. The more you try to fathom all the more breath taking to realise we are are to the universe, as a drop of water is to all the oceans, a pale blue dot in this cosmic expanse. Our whole Earth could fit into the Sun a million times, and our sun isn't even big as stars go. VY Canis Majoris the largest known star is approximately between 6 to 9 billion times bigger. Back to what was on the lens when the telescope refocused was the lights of Pleiades, a close by star cluster, mesmerising, inspiring, intense with piercing brightness as the light seemed to dance around like electricity around white-blue dots in space. It is a comforting feeling after looking and gasping such astonishment and wonderment, that you're feeling just as blown away looking at it, as the ten year old boy that gasped in amazement just before you. As an adult with each fact that you learn it just seems to become all the more beautiful.


The most astounding fact is the knowledge that the atoms that comprise life on Earth the atoms that make up the human body are traceable to the crucibles that cooked light elements into heavy elements in their core under extreme temperatures and pressures. These stars, the high mass ones among them went unstable in their later years they collapsed and then exploded scattering their enriched guts across the galaxy guts made of carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and all the fundamental ingredients of life itself. These ingredients become part of gas cloud that condense, collapse, form the next generation of solar systems stars with orbiting planets, and those planets now have the ingredients for life itself. So that when I look up at the night sky and I know that yes, we are part of this universe, we are in this universe, but perhaps more important than both of those facts is that the Universe is in us. When I reflect on that fact, I look up – many people feel small because they’re small and the Universe is big – but I feel big, because my atoms came from those stars. There’s a level of connectivity. That’s really what you want in life, you want to feel connected, you want to feel relevant you want to feel like a participant in the goings on of activities and events around you That’s precisely what we are, just by being alive…
-Neil De Grasse Tyson



After the observability Barney and Ari took me to a classic spot not to far away, one of the oldest bars in Prague. The entrance could be found near the top of a hill but the bar was dug three stories into the ground. What made it special was the theme. Furs, swords, (porcine) skull representation victories in battle lined the walls and the ales brought to the table by the terrifically large breasted bar wench; that made careful to lean forward down towards the table when ever we ordered another round. Knights roamed throughout the bar, head to toe in mail. The servers were gruff in a manner that suited the environment, with full commitment to make you feel as if you were in not just a themed but truly medieval bar, giving nick-name for the night like Farmer Frenzil to the patrons, in half old half modern syntax. We toasted and quenched our to the good life, pulling apart a braised pork knuckle for our dinner; it was a great end to a great night.

Prague is an extraordinary place

(M31) The Great Andromeda spiral galaxy

One of three telescopes (Ari in the foreground)
Decor of the medieval bar